Tucked away amid the bustle of modern Cairo lies one of the world's oldest Islamic cities, with its famous mosques, madrasas, hammams and fountains largely still entact. Founded in the 10th century, it became the centre of the Islamic world, reaching its golden age in the 14th century. It suffered a few centuries of neglect under the Ottomans but today is thriving once again. From the market stalls of the Khan el Khaldi and the minarets of the mosques to the horns of the taxis, this is the most lively of all of Cairo’s districts.
Despite the chaos of the medina it’s possible to snatch a few minutes of peace when you enter the Mosque of Al-Hakim near the East Gate of the old city. As mosques go, it isn’t the largest or most ornately decorated, but non-believers are allowed in to explore. And, if you’re lucky, you may be invited to climb up to the minaret. This is an offer that should not be passed up, especially near dusk. Although after you climb your first 100 stairs you might not think so, but then you come out and see the whole of the ancient city below your feet. The crumbling fortified city walls, elaborately decorated minarets of the other mosques and the throngs of vendors selling their wares below slowly fade to black as the sun sets.