El Bulli may be the best known, but it’s just one of many Spanish restaurants that are pushing back gastronomic boundaries at a rapid rate. The food being produced at places like Mugaritz is just as extraordinary. Located just outside the global gastro-hotspot that is San Sebastian, the restaurant is the baby Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz. His cooking might not be as quirky as some of his contemporaries, but it is just as technically innovative. This is subtle, intellectual cuisine, rigorous in its ideas; vegetables are a speciality and Aduriz knows a thing about foie gras. Really. He’s worked with the University of Granada in a project specifically aimed at researching the vagaries of duck liver. Mugaritz is housed in a rustic old cider barn in Basque country, and has a relaxed, inviting feel with its cosy terrace, and its herb and vegetable garden at the back.
The food has its roots in tradition but pushes every element to a new level, layering flavour upon flavour to create something truly memorable. Aduriz is a renowned perfectionist and no detail is overlooked, little wonder that he’s talked about as the future of Spanish cooking.