The River Café is a restaurant immune from fashion. It’s not about the latest taste or trend; instead, Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers’ West London restaurant specialises in solid Italian cooking of the very highest order – high enough to garner a Michelin star.
Its location is fairly unassuming, down by the riverfront (though not exactly on the river, despite the name) in less-than-glamorous Hammersmith. And the Richard Rogers-designed dining room, while light and comfortable, is not pushing back any aesthetic boundaries. Yet the River Cafe continues to be counted as one of the very best restaurants in the capital, often cited as a favourite by some of London’s most notoriously picky critics – because, quite simply, the food is glorious.
The menu changes on a monthly basis and ingredients are always impeccably fresh and of the very highest quality. The results of this approach means that even the most basic of dishes, say a simple plate of salad, sings off the plate with flavour. The River Café is expensive, but it is the complete package. Attention has been paid to every single aspect of the selection, preparation and service of the food, and it shows.