Waste is anathema to Fergus Henderson, the man behind acclaimed London restaurant St John; there are few parts of the animal he won’t use and the menu abounds with such dishes as bone marrow and pigs’ trotters.
This is hearty, meaty food, served very simply; the beauty is in the execution, the richness of the flavours, the intelligence in the cooking, rather than in the presentation. The white-walled canteen-like dining space is equally basic; St John’s is housed in a former smokehouse, just around the corner from London's Smithfield Market, the décor kept simple so there is little to detract from the food on your plate. The superb sharing dishes are a particular highlight, groups who book in advance can feast on game pie or poached trout – a divine suckling pig capable of feeding sixteen is also available.
The food is inevitably on the rich side and not very veggie-friendly (though there is the odd non-meat based menu option). Be sure to save room for one of their reputably excellent traditional English desserts, a bowl of Eton mess perhaps, some greengage crumble, or maybe an Eccles cake accompanied by some superb Lancashire cheese.